There was an Anglo Saxon settlement here, close to the river crossing, or ford across the Windrush, and gathered around its church, almost certainly an Anglo Saxon minster where the wonderful church of St John the Baptist now stands.

But what makes Burford particularly special is the large number of surviving, or part surviving, late medieval houses. Mostly of stone, but also with a surprising amount of timber framing.

It would be a mistake to think that the village has remained unchanged for all that time. A great deal of maintenance, renewal, refurbishment and embellishment has taken place over the years, but the town’s fluctuating fortunes has meant very little demolition and re-building. The result is one of the most perfect medieval high streets in existence.

It won’t surprise you to hear that its initial wealth was derived from the wool trade. Burford was one of the major raw wool markets in the Cotswolds, where sheep had been grazed in huge numbers since the arrival of the Normans. One of the very earliest merchant’s guilds was established here, in about 1100, and a weekly market was granted some time between 1088 and 1107.

The Tolsey

Originally built in 1525, the Tolsey was a market house, approached up steps from the pavement and carried on rough octagonal stone piers, creating an open space for stalls and so on. The upper floor now houses the town museum which I do highly recommend.

It was here, on the corner of Sheep Street that the market tolls were collected.

The main east-west trunk road crossed the high street about half way up, but was staggered by 20 yards or so, to make it impossible for dishonest traders to avoid paying their market tolls by driving their flocks through at pace.

Sheep Street goes west from the Tolsey, Witney Street goes East from roughly where I was standing a few seconds ago.

The huge prosperity of Burford first came under threat as the market for raw wool diminished.

The Church

St. John the Baptist contains many treasures. Monuments to several of the members of grand local families, the grandest of which is that to the Lord Chief Baron Tanfield whom, as we have already said, the citizens of Burford had no reason to love.

He lies here in his judicial ermine and collar of ss.s, serious, dignified and composed. His wife, who paid for the monument, lies at his side. At the head kneels their daughter, the accomplished Elizabeth, Viscountess Falkland. At the foot, clad in armour, Lucius Carey, Elizabeth’s illustrious son.

The font is probably Norman but was recut in the 14th century.

The pulpit was made in 1872 using 15th century panels.

Timber screens, an alter reredos, and magnificent stained glass in all directions. There is a great painting of the crucifixion over the tower arch which sits amongst evidence on the walls of the architectural changes that have taken place in this building. As usual the raising of the clerestory left marks of old rooflines.